Rumors are rife that chef Mathieu Masson-Ducep is back on the island and in development mode, which should translate to exploring, getting to know the lay of the land and, above all, the local flavors. Based in Montreal, Canada, Masson-Ducep is no novice: he began his culinary journey at age 15, is certified by the Quebec Tourism Hotel and Spa (ITHQ) and was the winner of Chopped Canada Season 2 in 2014.
There’s more! Masson-DuCeppe is executive chef of two well-known Montreal eateries, Jellyfish Crudo et Charbon and Pubjelly, and has designed over 10 kitchens in Canada and abroad, as well as launched a successful catering business.
All is well, but at $32,000+GCT, will he impress? Will his menu be up to the mark?
It certainly was! An amuse-bouche of seared oysters, cool and refined in the mouth, followed by Uncle Buck’s pulled pork marmalade, cheese, salsa roja, coriander and a melt-in-the-mouth filet mignon. “The first bite is always the start of my intense, full-bodied flavours… it sets the rhythm and the standard for the rest of the evening… The first bite defines my personality: passionate, skilled, creative…” said Masson Duceppe.
Meal Thursday on Friday, July 19th will be held in the JA Food + Drink kitchen.
Next came a swordfish mousse with potatoes smoked for 15 hours, another mouthwatering dish that raised eyebrows and looks of delight. There was no doubt that the chef was there to show off his skills. The structure of the menu intrigued us. Our reaction came as Chef Masson-Duceppe showed us around. “In my 18 years of cooking, I have defined a menu structure that allows me to offer a variety of techniques, textures, temperatures, etc. My own definition of what a multi-course menu should be is to offer the best culinary experience. The courses are always chosen to delight the palate in different ways. I always present a strong amuse-bouche at the beginning, followed by a vegetable dish, a crudo dish, a pasta dish, a meat dish, a fish dish and a sweet creation. This menu structure is inspired by the big Sunday banquets in traditional Italian homes,” he said.
It was truly a Sunday feast, except Thursday Food was forced to leave a good deal of his homemade spaghetti behind to enjoy filet mignon with ackee and bone marrow emulsion, a genius substitute for foie gras pate.
The six courses concluded with a mango and jackfruit pavlova and vanilla chantilly, and closing words from the chef: “I am showcasing the different international techniques I have learnt in my career… I always use local, seasonal ingredients and hope to showcase and pay tribute to the local products that fascinate me… I am trying to shift the mindset of what can be created with the beautiful resources of the island.”
“We’re taking ingredients that locals have eaten since they were kids and serving them in a different way. We want to offer different ways to bring back flavours and memories, but serve them in a particularly creative way that elicits comments like, ‘Oh, I never thought of that.'”
Rethinking done with respect and humility is always a good thing, and Chef Matthew understands that well. In fact, his wine pairings are based on the ITHQ sommelier course and the help of wine enthusiast Bobby Stewart. But the final pairing came down to his personal taste. “I pair wines with how I like to eat and drink!” he said.
In that sense, we, like everyone else, applaud the chef for preparing such a wonderful dinner paired with wine.
Editor’s note: Masson Duceppe’s brilliant use of salt will be featured in a separate article.
