Charbroiled Asian Salmon with grilled vegetables. (Photo: Janelle Pantry-Coke)
Food Awards judge Janelle Pantry-Coke stopped by Steakhouse on the Veranda and here is her review.
Steakhouse on the Veranda has a lot to live up to, with the unenviable task of providing a dining experience worthy of the unparalleled backdrop of old-world elegance at Devon House. Not only is Devon House a National Monument designated by the Jamaica National Heritage Trust, but it is also a beautifully preserved Georgian Great House with a history dating back more than 140 years since the mansion was built by George Stibel, and a further 270 years since the parish church of St. Andrew built a rectory on the site.
With this rich history in mind, we walked up the grand staircase that led from the courtyard into the spacious black-and-white tiled area that is home to Steakhouse on the Veranda.
As we stopped at the entrance, our waitress caught our eye and she quickly led us past the beautiful exposed brick walls, whitewashed banisters and fretwork to our table in the far corner. We savored the old-world charm of the floor-to-ceiling wooden louvers and high ceilings while tucking into the restaurant’s mix of steaks and seafood.
We were disappointed to find that the Rib Eye and T-Bone steaks were sold out, but decided that the 12oz USDA NY Strip cooked in the classic style (only salt and pepper) was worth a try.We also ordered the Charbroiled Asian Salmon and Shrimp Tempura and Scotch Bonnet Beef Butter (bone marrow) as appetizers.
The appetizers came out quickly and were served piping hot. The shrimp was nothing special, but the beef butter was perfectly seasoned and tasty.
Shortly after, our waitress arrived with a beautifully presented New York Strip, served with sautéed carrots and green beans and sweet potato fries, and the Asian Salmon, also picture-perfect, came with a sesame-ginger sauce for dipping.
The salmon was flawless, just the right amount of charred on the outside and a delicately flaky texture on the inside. It was moist and flavorful, and the ginger sauce provided the perfect contrast to the salmon’s natural “seafood” flavor.
But the long-awaited steak didn’t live up to expectations. It was beautifully presented and full of flavor, but not as tender as I’d hoped. The accompanying sweet potato fries were tasty but a little dry on the inside. That said, the house Pinot Noir was medium-bodied and not too complex, and it complemented the meal well.
Upon hearing it was our anniversary, our kind hostess treated us to a complimentary cheesecake dessert, which we devoured despite being on a low carb/low sugar diet!
In summary, we’d happily recommend Steakhouse on the Veranda, but we think it’ll take a while to match the incredible history and ambiance of the flagship store.
